Eyelet-hole-sewing machine.



N5. 699,371. Patenten may s, |902.

C. A. DAHL. EYELET HOLE SEWING MACHINE.

(Application Bled May 31, 1901.) (No'Model'.)

9 Sh'eets-Sheei I.

/Wfwfw 1N. 699,371. Patented 'may s, |902.

l c. A. DAHL. EYELETHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

(application med May s1', m01.) .(Nn Model.) 9 Sheets-Sheet 2."

No. 699,3. Patented May`6, |902.

fc. A. DAHL. EYELET HOLE SEWING MACHINE.

(Applicaton led May 31, 1901.) (No Model.) 9 Sheets-Shed 3.

ga'z'nesuses. A [nvewm C mas? 17a/706;

Y Qy's lPatented May 6, |902.

No. 699,37l.

C. A. DAHL. EYELET HOLE SEWING MACHINE.

sheets-shea: 4.

(Application filed May S1, 1901.)

(No Model.)

edt ma Inverti/or Quayle@ di. ,Zh

-- No. 699,37l. Patented M'ay s, |902.

c. A. nAHL.

EYELET HOLE SEWING MACHINE.

(Application led H Iay 31, 1901.) l (No Model.) 9 Sheets`$heet 5.

No. 699,371. l Patented May 6, |902.

C. A..DAHL.

EYELET HOLE SEWING MACHINE.

(Application Bled. may 31, 1901.)

(nu Mum.) 9 sheets-*sheet s.

No. 699,37I. Patented May 6, 1902.

E c. A; DAHL. EYELET HOLE SEWING MACHINE.

(Application Bled May 31, 1901.) y. (No Model.) 9 Sheets-Sheet 7.

.. No. 699,371. Patented May-a, |902.

c. A. DML.

EYELET HOLE SEWING MACHINE. (Application led May 81, 1901.) (lo Model.) 4 9 Sheqts-Sheat 8.

.301: NoRms 'versus co.. Fumo-mmc., wsulucmn. D. c.

No. 6919,37l. .Patented may 6,- |902.

c. A. nAHL.

EYELET HOLE SEWING MACHINE.

(Application led May 31, 1901.) l

' 9 Sheets-Sheet I9,

om Model.)

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l UiNrTno STATES PATENT Canton.

CHARLES A. DAIIL,` OFILTNN, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO REECE BUT- TONHOLE SEVING MACHINE COMPANY, OF BOSTON; MASSACHUSETTS, A

CORPORATION OF MAINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 699,371 dated May 6, 1902.

Application filed May 31,1901. Serial No. 62.590. (No model.)

To all wtonti-t may concern.-

Beitknown that I, CHARLES A. DAHL,a citizen of the United States, residing at Lynn, county of Essex, and State of Massachusetts,

have invented an Improvement in Eyeletl-Iole-Sewing Machines, ofwhich the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawings, is a specification, like charactors on the drawings representinglike parts.

io This application is a continuation of my prior application, Serial No. 690,951, led Sep tember 14,1898, for an eyelet-hole-sewin g machine.

This invention relates to abuttonhole sewi5 ing and cutting machine of the type wherein the stitch-forming mechanism has a bodily rotation with respect to the work-clamp and comprises certain'improvements in the mechanism for sewing and cutting a buttonhole,

2o which are more fully set forth in the appended claims.

The invention is illustrated in connection with a machine designed more especially for the cutting and sewing'of a circular buttonhole commonly known as an eyeletg7l but it is obvious that the invention in its main features is equally applicable to bnttonholes other than those of circular form.

In the drawings, Figure 1 is a side eleva- 3o tion showing the complete machine. Fig. 2 is a front elevation corresponding to Fig. 1. Fig. 3 is an elevation showing the machine in cross-section upon the line 3 3 in Fig. 1. Fig. 4 is a side elevation showing the machine upon thc side opposite to that shown in Fig. 1 and with certain of the parts removed. Fig. 5 is a plan view showing the machine in cross-section on the line 5 5, Fig. 4, with the upper portion of the machine re- 4o moved. Fig. 6 is a side elevation of a portion of the frameof the machine and the cutting members. Fig. 7 is an enlarged det-ail view in elevation of various controlling-levers and connections. Fig. 8 is a plan View of the part N, forming a portion ot' the means for giving the bodily rotation to the stitch-forming mechanism. Fig. 9 is an end elevation of one end of the said part N with its connections. Fig. 10 is a development of the cam- 5o groove 35 in said part N. Fig. 11 is an end elevation of the part N opposite to that shown in Fig. 9. Figfli. is an end elevation, partlyin cross-section, on the line 12 12 of Fig. 13, showing the part H, which cooperates with the part N. Fig. 13 is a detail view in plan of the 55 said part H. Fig. 14 is a perspective view of the end of the controllinglever 5G shown in Fig. 7. Fig. 15 is'a front elevation showing principally the lower complemental stitchforming mechanism and the connected parts 6o whereby it is bodily rotated. Fig. 16 is a corresponding rear elevation of the parts shown in Fig. 15. Fig. 17 is a View in cross-section taken upon the line 17 17 of the parts shown in Fig. 16. i Fig. 18 is a plan view of the parts 65 shown in Figs. 15, 16, and 17. Fig. 19 is a diagrammatic view showing the paths of the upper and lower needles in connection with the throat-plate.V Fig. 20 is a View corresponding to'Fig. 19, showing said paths of 7o movement as they appear p when viewed at right angles to the position shownin Fig. 19.

The machine illustrated, in'common with machinesof this type, comprisesa clampframe A and a stitch-frame B. The stitchframe has a movement relative to that of the clamp-frame, and in the machine shown tho clamp-frame is stationary, while the stitchframe slides back and forth thereon; but it is obvious that this arrangement may be re- 8o versed so long as relative movement of thc two frames is provided for.

In the stitch-frame B are mounted or supported the principal operating parts of the machine, including the upper and lower complemental stitch-forming mechanisms, the cutting mechanism com prisingacutter, a cutter-actuating lever, and a cutter-anvil,wl1ile on the clamp-frame A is mounted the means for clamping the work tobe sewed and'cut.

Each complete operation ofthe machine includes a period of time during which the stitch-forming mechanism is at rest and in which the cutting mechanism is operated to cut the buttonhole and a second subsequent 95 period of time in which the cutting mechanism is operated to stitch the buttonhole and a third subsequent period of time in which the machine operates to move the cutting and stitch-forming mechanisms simultaneously in roo order to place the said mechanisms in suitable relative relation 'for beginning the next complete operation of the machine. This entire cycle of operations, it will be understood, is made to take place automatically by a single operation of the manually-controlled star-ting-leverX X. In carrying out this operation of the machine the pulley 7^", by which the machineis driven fromasuitable source of power, is mounted to turn loosely on the main transverse shaft 6, journaled in the upper portion of the stitch-frame B. This pulley 7 x is connected, by means of a gear 8x, mounted on the said shaft 6,with a cooperating gear 9", mounted upon another parallel transverse shaft 3, mounted in the lower portion of the stitchframe B,which shaft is normally disconnected from the part H, which it operates at certain times, as hereinafter described. The power is transmitted through the pulley 7I and operates through the shaft 6 and also through the shaft 5 to operate the various mechanisms of the machine.

The connections whereby the power is transmitted at the required times from the pulley 7X to the shaft 6 are as follows: A disk 80, provided with a segmental flange 81, is rigidly attached to the shaft 6 by a pinySetx and forms one member of a clutch mechanism for connecting the pulley 7x with the shaft 6. A second member of the said clutch consists of a disk or annular piece integral or rigidly attached to the pulley7 7 X, which disk or annular piece is provided with a projecting rim or fiange 85, as shown in cross-section in Fig. 3 and in elevation in Fig. 7. This projecting rim or flange 85 has two oppositely-disposed shoulders formed therein for cooperation with the clutch-pin 82.

The clutch-pin y82, whereby the members 8l 85 of the clutch are connected at the proper times, is journaled on the hub 80x of the clutch member 8O and at its lower end resting in a groove 81y in the flange 81, its other end being shaped, as by being provided with a projection 82x, to cooperate with the shoulders on the annular projecting rim or ange 85 and also shaped to cooperate with the arm n of the lever 83.

The arm n of the lever 83 engages with the end of the clutch-pin 82 and holds the same against the tension of the spring 84C out of position for engagement with the shoulders on theprojecting rim or flange 85, carried by the pulley 7x. When, however, the lever 83 is moved so as to be disengaged from the end of the clutch-pin 82, the spring 84: acts to move the clutch-pin toward and into engageupon'the flange 81 and prevents sudden shock in the action of the clutch-pin S2 when the members of the clutch 81 85 are engaged and disengaged.

By means of the shaft 6 motion is imparted through. an eccentric 8 on said shaft, a pitman 9 surrounding said eccentric and connecting with a lever 10, pivoted in the upper portion ofthe stitch-frame B,`throu gh connections 11 and 12 to the needle-bar 13, whereby the proper reciprocationsof the needle are secured.

The curved under needle 14, which coperates with the upper needle in making the stitch, is supported in an arm 15, which arm is rigidly attached to one end of the stud 16, journaled obliquely to the horizontal in the block 17. The opposite end of the stud 16 is provided with a gear 18, which cooperates with a similar but larger segmental gear 19, supported for rotative movement on a stud 2O and connected by a link 21 with the rod 22, as shown in Figs. 15, 16, 17, and 18. The gears 18 and 19 are suitably beveled to compensate for the inclination of the stud 1G with respect to the stud 20.

The rod 22, which operates the segmental gear 19, is given a reciprocatory movement at the desired times by means of abell-crank lever 24, pivotally mounted on the stitchframe to move in avertical plane. The said lever 21 is connected to the rod 22 by means of a pin 25, slidingly mounted in the end of the lever, which pin 25 is pivotally connected with a sleeve 26, rotatably mounted on the rod 22, as shown in Fig. 1. The lever 24 is rocked by means of the engagement of its opposite end with the grooved cam-disk 23, mounted on the shaft G.

The above constitutes the mechanism for giving the upper and lower complemental stitch-forming mechanisms the movements for forming the stitch over and through thc edge of the buttonhole.

The stitches are placed around the buttonhole by giving the entire stitch-forming mechanism a rotation with respect to the workclamp, and the means for securing this rotation are as follows: A vertical shaft 27 is journaled in the stitch-frame B, as shown, and is provided with laterally-extendingarms 28 and 29, one for rotating the upper-needle mechanism and the other for rotating the lower-needle mechanism. These arms 28 and 29 are provided at their outer ends with seg# mental gears whose center of curvature is the shaft 27, and these segmental gears cooperate, respectively, with the gears 32 and 33, mounted` the one on the upper-needle-carrying part 13 andthe other on the lower-needle-carrying part or block 17. The shaft 27 has a rearwardly-extending arm m20, consisting, as shown, of an extension of the lower arm 29, and this arm m20 carries an antifriction-roll 34, arranged to travel in the camgroove 35 in the part N. (Shown in Fig. 8.)

This part N is mounted upon a third trans- IOO verse shaft 37, parallel to the shafts 3 and 6, previously described; Intermittentrotation is imparted to the part N, and thus to the.

stitch forming mechanism, to space the stitches Varound the edge of the buttonhole by the following mechanism: A lever 3S (see Fig. 1) is supported for rocking movement upon the shaft 37, with its upper 'end in p0- sition for engagement with a cam 39, mounted upon the shaft 6, whereby the said lever 38 is rocked forward once during each revolution of the shaft G. A spring 40 connects the lever 3S with the stitch-frame B and operates whenever cam 39 is out of engagement with the lever 33 to return the lever 38 to'its normal position. The lever 38 has a shoulder 41, on which rests the roll 42, and by a spring 43, this roll is normally held in bearing with the face 44 of theflange on the part N. The rollsupporting end face of the shoulder 4l is inclined, so that as the lever 33 is moved forward by the cam 39 it draws the roll 42 into gripping contact with the face 44 of the flange on the part N and gives the part N a fraction ofa rotation. This movement is repeated with each succeeding revolution of the shaft 6, the result beingastepby-step movement of the roll 34 in the camgroove 35, which operates the arm m20, which in turn, through the connection previously described, acts to partially rotate the stitchforming mechanism, and thereby place the stitches, as required, side by side around the buttonhole. During this step-by-step movementof the part N the roll 34 will travel in the groove 35 from the point 45 to the point 46, (see Fig. 10,) whereupon, as will be understood, the stitch-forming mechanism will have finished its stitching operation and the shaft 6 will be stopped. Another mechanism, hereinafter described, next comes into action through the medium of the clutch 3l 82 85, pulley 7x, and the gears connecting the same to the shaft 3 and a secondclutch and the part H and moves the part N to complete its revolution, during which movement the roll 34 will travel in the groove 35 and from the point 46 to the point 45 (see Fig. 10)-and during such movement will operate the arm m20 and through the same connections as before reverse the rotation of the stitch-forming mechanism,whereby the needles are placed in position for starting the stitching of a succeeding buttonhole.

The mechanism above referred to for moving the part N to reverse the rotation of the stitch-forming mechanism and place itin position for starting a buttonhole is as follows:

The transverse shaft 3, on which the part H is mounted, carries the rigidly-attached gear 9x and the rigidly-attached disk 50,.'which disk is provided with the toothed projections 5l (see Figs. 3 and 5) and forms' part of a clutch for connecting at the required times the part 1I to the shaft 3. On the adjacent end of the part H is a flange 53, and in this flange is stepped one end of a clutch-pin 54,

v which pin surrounds the shaft 3 (see Fig. 7)

and is pressed normally toward the disk 50 by spring 55 and extends upwardly forengagement at its upper end with the arm e of the bifurcated lever 56. (See Fig. 7.) VThe lever. 56 .by its arm e operates to hold the clutch-pin 54 away from the toothed projections 51 on the disk 50, and hence allows the shaft 3 to rotate without rotating the part H; but when the lever 56 is depressed it releases the clutch-pin 54, and the spring 55 then acts to move the upper end of the clutch-pin 54 into engagement with the projections 51 of the disk 50, thus locking the part H fast to the shaft 3.

The part H is shown detached from the other elements of the machine in Fig. 13, and, as shown, carries an eccentric 51X, (see Fig. 1,) which operates the cutter-carrying lever by means of the connection 6x, between the said eccentric and the end of the cuttercarrying lever. The part H alsocarries a cam 4, which is located between depending projections 5 5 (see Fig. 12) from the clampframe A, and hence operates to move the stitch-frameB forward and backward during each complete revolution. l

1 In the operation of the machine the stitchframe being in its forward position and the cutter about half -way down the operator places the material below the clamping member 4x of the work-clamp and then shifts the hand starting-lever X X fromthe position shown by full lines to the positionshown by dotted lines in Fig. 7. This lever X X is provided with the two cams 94 9G,.Whereby during the shifting of the said lever the upper clamping member of the work-clamp is depressed to clamp the material below, and the lever 56 is shifted from the position indicated in fulllines to the position indicatedin dotted lines in Fig. 7. This operation of the lever 56, as before stated, releases the clutch-pin 54 from the arm eof the lever 56, and thus clutches the part H to the shaft 3, thus causing the rotation of the part H. The rotation of the partH will continue until the clutchpin 54 :is carriedto a position where-its free operated to cut the buttonhole, andthe stitch- Aframe B will have been moved backwardly-by the operation of the cam 4 and the stitching mechanism thus placedinposition for beginhing the next stitching operation.l A cam 5S,

forming a=part of the part H, (see Fig. 7) will `also havemoved into engagement with and IOO IIO

by means of the eccentric lxwill have been y shifted the lever 83 from the position indicated by full lines to the position indicated by dotted lines in Fig. 7. This movement of the lever 83 will have raised an arm f of the said lever sufticiently to disengage the stop 64 on the said armffrom the dog 66, and hence to allow the dog 66 to be moved by the spring 65. At the same time the arm n of the lever 83 will have swung out of engagement with the clutch-pin 82, allowing the said clutch-pin to be moved by the spring S4 into position for engagement with the next approaching projection in the rim or flange 85 on the loose pulley 7x to clutch the shaft 6 to said pulley 7X, whereby the shaft 6 is revolved and the stitchforming mechanism and the step-by-step feeding mechanism for rotating the stitch-forming mechanism are put into operation, all as hereinbefore described.

The lever 83, above referred to, operates in connection with the part N as follows: The dog 66 is mounted to turn loosely on the hub of the part N and is shaped to overlap the shoulder x30 (see Fig. 8) on the part N and has its periphery coincident with the periphery of the part N. When the parts are in the position shownin dottedlinesin Fig. 7, the lever 83 is supported by the stop 64, which rests on both the periphery of the dog 66 and the part N, and it remains thus supported until the step-bystep movement for spacing the stitches has carried the part N into position so that the projection 64 will drop from the shoulder m into the recess 67. By this movement the lever 83 is placed with its arm n in position to engage the clutch-pin 82, which clutch-pin, riding along the inclined face 90 of said arm fn, will be drawn out of engagement with the projection in the rim or flange 85 on the pulley 7X, thus unclutching the shaft 6 from said pulley 7 x and allowing the stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms to cease operation, the stitchingof the buttonhole having atthis pointbeen completed. The shaft 6 travels at a very high rate of speed, and as the clutch-pin 82 is brought into engagement with the shoulder on the end of the arm 83 the shaft 6 will continue rotatingby the momentive force and carry the disk 80 fora limited distance against the force of the springs 92, which movement is sufcient to allow the pawl 61 to spring into the notch 62 on the disk 80, so thatafter the momentive force is spent and the disk 8O recoils upon operation of the springs 92 it will carry the pawl 61 backward, and thus operate the connections 63, 64, and 65 (shown in Fig. 7 to reverse the hand starting-lever a: m. The hand starting-lever .fr being reversed allows the spring 68 to reverse the lever 56, and therefore shift its arm tout from engagement with the clutch-pin 54, whereupon the said clutch-pints moved by the spring 55 to rengage the disk 50 and clutch the part H to the shaft 3, thus again putting into operation the part H. The rotation of the part H continues during about one-fourth of a rotation of the shaft 3, or an amount governed by the arc of gear-teeth 70X, and thereby the clutch-pin 54 is carried into engagement with the inclined face 98 (see Fig. 14) on the arm c of the lever 56 and is thereby drawn out from engagement with the projections 51 of the disk 50, and the machine comes to a full stop. During this portion of the rotation of the part H it will have operated the cam 4 to move the stitch-frame B forward,and thereby place the cutter-carrying lever in position for the cutter x to cut the material in the work-clamp m4 with the cutter about halfway down, and during this portion of the rotation the toothed projections 70x on the part H will have intermeshed with the toothed projections x on the part M, and the part N will have been operated to complete one rotation. During this portion of the rotation of the part N the roll 34 will have traveled in the groove 35 from the point 46 to the point 45 (see Fig. 10) and in so doing will have operated the lever 2Ox to reverse the stitch-forming mechanism by rotating the parts 13 and 17, thus leaving the stitch-forming mechanism in position for stitching so far as its rotary position is concerned. It will be noted, however, that the stitch-forming mechanism is in its forward position. The saine rotation of the part N, carrying the dog 66, will have placed the dog 66 in engagement with the stop 64 and moved it thereby against the tension of the spring 65 in the position required for repeating its movement when permitted under the stop 54, and the machine may now be put into operation for a second cycle of movement by shifting the hand startinglever ac :11, as previously described.

Having described my invention, what I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-

ICO

1. A sewing-machine of the characterindicated, comprising a bed-frame, a work-clamp ing member, an eye-pointed, reciprocating, straight needle located above the clamping member-,an eye-pointed, reciprocating curved needle located below the work-clamping member, means to actuate the needles in making the stitches comprising the needle-carrying members as 13 and 17, the part N, having toothed formations and cam-groove 35, and connections substantially as described, with the needle-carrying members 13,17,and means to partially7 rotate the part N, step by step, whereby the needles are rotated a full revolution during the stitching operations, combined with a separately-actuated part, as H, having toothed formations adapted for engagement with the toothed formations of the part N, for completing the rotation of part N, whereby the needles are reversely rotated to the starting-point,substantially as described.

2. An overedge sewing-machine, comprising a clamp-frame, a work-clamp mounted thereon, a stitch-frame, stitch-forming mechanism mounted thereon, and means for operating it, said stitch-forming mechanism b ing capable of bodily rotation in said stitchframe, a cam member, and connections between said cam member and the stitch-forming mechanism whereby upon a single rotation of said cam member the stitch-forming mechanism is bodily rotated in one direction and then bodilyl rotated in the reverse direction, means for giving a step-by-step movement to said cam member to an extent suflicient to give the desired rotation to the stitchforming mechanism, and a second means for continuing said movement of said cam member to an extent suflicient to give the desired reverse rotation to the stitch-forming mechanism.

3. A buttonhole-sewing machine comprising stitch-forming mechanism` capable of bodily rotation, three shafts, a driven pulley loosely mounted on the first of said shafts and connected with the second of said shafts to rotate the same, a clutch between the pulley and lthe first shaft, means for intermittently rotating the third shaft from lthe first shaft, connections between the third shaft andthe stitch-forming mechanism whereby the latter may be rotated in either direction, adevice loosely mounted on the second shaft and having periodic engagement with the third shaft to operate the same at times, a clutch between said device and the second shaft, connections between the first shaft and the stitch-forming mechanism for operating the same to form stitches, means for actuating the second of said clutches when the machine is set in operation.

4. A buttonhole-sewing machine, comprising stitch -forming mechanism capable of bodily rotation,`three shafts, a pulley loosely mounted on the first shaft, a clutehbetween said pulley and said shaft, connections between the first and second shafts whereby the latter may be driven by the former, a cam mounted on the third shaft and connected with the stitch-forming mechanism to rotate the same, means for giving a continuous rotation to the third shaft from the second shaft at times, means for giving an intermittent rotation to the third shaft from the first shaft at other times whereby intermittent movement may be given to the stitch-forming mechanism in one direction and a continuous movement may be given to the stitch-forming mechanism in the opposite direction.

A buttonhole-sewing machine, comprising a rectilineally-reeiprocating needle, and means for operating it, lower complemental stitch forming mechanism comprising a curved needle pivoted at an oblique angle to the path of reciprocation of the needle upon for giving-a variable movement to the said curved needle.

7. Abuttonhole-sewing machine comprising a rectilineally-reciprocating needle, and means for operating it, lower complemental stitch forming mechanism comprising a thread-carrier mounted upon a shaft, said shaft being arranged at an oblique angle to a path of reciprocation of the needle, a gear -upon the end of said shaft, a second gear cooperating therewith and mounted for rotary movement in a planeV parallel with the path l of reciprocation of the needle, a rod or bar connected to the second gear and reciprocating in a path parallel to the path of the needle, and means for reciprocating said rod or bar, a rotary support for said complementa-l stitch-forming mechanism and means for rotatingsaid support.

8. A buttonhole-sewing machine compris-Y ing` stitch forming mechanism capable' of bodily rotation, three shafts, buttonhole-cutting mechanism, means for moving the stitchforming mechanism relatively to the cutting mechanism, connections between the first shaft and the second shaft for operating the latter connections between the first shaft and the stitch-forming mechanism for operating the same to form stitches, connectionsbetween the second shaft and the cuttingk mech` anism for operating the same, connectionsbetween the third shaft and the stitch-forming mechanism for rotating the same in either direetion, means for operating the third shaft intermittently from the first shaft to rotate the stitch-forming mechanism stepby step during the stitching of the buttonhole, `means to operate the third shaft continuously from the secondshaft to rotate the stitchforming mechanism continuously in the direction opposite to that `obtainedduring the'stitchinv.

In testimony whereof I' have signed my name tothis specification in the presence o f two subscribing witnesses. V

` CHARLES A. DAIIL. Witnessesz' 4 NATHAN HEARD,

GEO. W. GREGORY.

IOO

IIO 

